Who has not come across a video on Instagram or TikTok where a dermatologist is singing praises for retinol? For over a decade, retinol has been a buzzword in the skincare industry. Furthermore, when it comes to dealing with acne, fine lines, hyperpigmentation and wrinkles, retinol is the only compound lauded.

Despite all the hype, this mainstay in dermal clinics is still underutilized and sometimes not properly used, leading to so much confusion.

In this article, we are going to talk about everything you need to learn about retinol and why this should be in your skincare routine.

Without further ado, let’s learn everything about retinol.

Debunking Retinol Myths

Retinol Is for Exfoliation

NO. Retinol is not an EXFOLIATOR. Retinol works like an exfoliant, helping to regulate/speed up skin cell turnover and prevent the production of dead skin cell buildup.

Retinol impacts gene transcription, which results in increased collagen formation, skin smoothing, and balancing pigmentation, unlike exfoliants. Retinol does not break the skin bond, instead, it helps to function at a deeper level.

In addition, retinol increases the rate of cell turnover, giving you youthful skin. It also helps with acne and spots by shedding dead skin cells. Moreover, retinoids are known to deep cleanse pores, remove blackheads, and get rid of hyperpigmentation.

It further helps to reduce signs of ageing such as fine lines and wrinkles which keeps your skin looking younger. Thus, they are more than an exfoliator.

Retinol Thins the Skin Layer

People think retinol thins the skin because of the skin peeling that can occur with the application of retinol. It is quite the opposite. Since the skin frequently thins with ageing and sun exposure, retinoids assist in making the skin thicker by stimulating the creation of collagen.

When you start retinoid therapy, then for the first month the process of retinisation occurs, during this phase, your skin peels off, it causes mild irritation, dryness, and redness. This happens because your skin is trying to adjust to the retinol. 

Retinol Produces Fast Results

NO. There is no magic ingredient yet discovered that will give you youthful and beautiful skin in the first few weeks.

Despite everyone wanting this myth to be true, retinol is one ingredient that will show results, but it will take at least three months for your skin to adjust and show some results.

If you are using OTC retinol, results can be seen in six months, while for tretinoin, it can take up to three months for results to be seen.

Difference Between Retinol and Tretinoin

Retinol

Retinol is an over-the-counter (OTC) drug that is a milder form of retinoid. These OTC does not contain any active ingredient, which makes them less potent as compared to retinoids like tretinoin. Retinols are less irritating and drying, which is why they are commonly used in skincare products and are recommended for dry and sensitive skin.

Tretinoin

Tretinoin is a highly potent retinoid. Proper use of tretinoin helps in treating premature ageing skin that results in overexposure to UV rays. As it is more potent than retinol, it can be drying and can cause irritation and redness, so it is important to pair it with a moisturiser.

Retinol in Your Skincare Routine – You by Sia

Cleanser

Of course, cleansing your face is the first thing to do. Use a mild cleanser, preferably one with no formulation like AHA or BHA, as combining two different formulations will be harsh on your skin. Wet your face and apply cleanser, gently rub it for a minute to remove all the makeup and dirt. Rinse with lukewarm water.

Retinol

Take a pea size amount of retinol on your fingertips and apply it on your face and neck. Do not rub the face. Apply slowly and in a circular motion once a week at night for four to six weeks, and after six weeks, you can use retinol twice a week, the same size and in the same way from the 7th to 12th week.

From the 13th to the 18th week, you can start using it three times a day and can slightly increase the amount. And from the 18th week onwards you can apply the pea size amount on alternative days.

Moisturiser

You should not simply use a moisturiser in response to dry skin. It needs to be a part of your morning and evening skincare regimen. For the first three weeks, your skin goes through retinisation, which means it is adjusting to retinoid therapy. 

Thus, to avoid dryness and minimize discomfort during this process, it is advised to always use a moisturiser when applying your retinoid. 

You can use any fragrance-free moisturiser with retinols. 

Sunscreen

Everyone in the skincare field knows that sunscreen is a must. Though if you are using retinol, it is strictly advised to wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen with UV filters throughout the day, even when it is cloudy outside.

Pro Tip: Once you have started using retinol, it is best to avoid waxing or any peeling face masks, peel your skin, which might irritate it or cause redness. If you want to use wax or peeling masks it is advised to maintain a 15-day gap to avoid any irritation, redness, or scars.

Which Ingredients or Products Don't Mix Well With Retinoids?

Alpha Hydroxy Acid and Retinol

You might have heard that less is more. So, mixing these two ingredients will speed up skin cell turnover.

Retinol and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) both have the potential for unpleasant side effects as they both exfoliate the top layer of skin. Thus, avoid mixing both these ingredients together for better results and flawless skin. 

When it comes to skincare, more is never better.

Peels, Waxing and Retinoids

As already discussed above, Retinoids and peels/waxing are a nightmare for your skin.

When used in conjunction with peels or waxing treatments, retin-A and its derivatives, such as retinol or tretinoin, might cause complications like skin peeling, breakouts, redness, and irritation. 

Moreover, small skin tears can frequently develop if you wax (while you are on your retinol therapy), especially on the eyelids. So, a gap of 10 to 15 days is advised from retinoids if you are planning to wax or use any peeling therapy.

Benzoyl Peroxide and Retinol

If you have been dealing with acne, your dermatologist might have advised you to use Benzoyl Peroxide – as it is one of the best treatments to deal with acne. Next to it is retinol, known to treat acne, hyperpigmentation, and premature ageing.

But, using these together is not an ideal scenario for your skin. Both of these chemicals have high acidic value, and using these together might harm your skin cells.

Both retinol and benzoyl peroxide function as effective stand-alone treatments for acne. So, combining them is a big NO.

Most people feel dry, flaking and peeling skin when the two are together. Moreover, the purpose of utilizing retinol is also completely defeated because benzoyl peroxide reverses the effects of the way retinol functions.

Salicylic Acid and Retinol

Many people are told to use retinol to reduce premature ageing signs like wrinkles and fine lines. And for people dealing with acne, salicylic acid is often advised. 

Though both salicylic acid and retinol increase cell turnover to do their respective jobs. If combined, they can result in over-drying and skin irritation sometimes can create skin inflammation. 

Thus, both these ingredients should not be combined to make sure your skin stays healthy. Nevertheless, to compensate for the need, you can use salicylic acid in the morning and retinol at night – so it will not exacerbate the skin.

Conclusion

Retinol has a positive effect on skin with acne, fine lines, and wrinkles. All kinds of retinoids have shown promising results. However, it may take six months for wrinkles and three months for acne to improve once you start using retinoids and you can see better results only after a year. So, when it comes to retinol, patience and consistency is the key.

FAQs

1. Do Retinoids Reduce Wrinkles?

Yes, retinoids such as tretinoin have been known to reduce wrinkles and fine lines when used as advised by the doctor.

2. Why is retinol controversial?

Well, everything has pros and cons, and retinol falls in the same category. The reason behind the controversy is irritation, redness, and peeling of the skin caused in the first few weeks when a person starts applying retinol. Thus, it is always advised to use retinol as directed due to its high strength and high pH levels.

3. How can you tell whether retinol is effectively working?

Over-the-counter retinol may take up to six months to get the benefits. After 12 weeks, you could see an improvement in conditions like acne, but it may take much longer for sun damage and ageing symptoms to go away.